Sierra Club - Expeditions that protect the Enviroment

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Yukon Canoe Classic & Music, Too!

Canoeing Adventure in the wondrous Yukon Territory, Canada.
This is a trip limited to 10 Persons
Yukon Territory, in northwestern Canada, abounds with rivers -- both remote and well-traveled. Paddling opportunities range from lakes to easy rivers to currents boasting roaring rapids around every turn. It is a paddler's paradise, and you will see many cars with canoes tied on top as you visit our starting town of Whitehorse. To be a Yukoner almost certainly means you spend time in summer "messing around" in boats.
This journey begins in the heart of the Yukon, and our first of three rivers is a scenic, peaceful delight. The McQuesten River is named in honor of Jack McQuesten, the explorer, trader, and prospector who is remembered in history for founding the towns of Circle, Alaska as well as Ft. Reliance, Yukon Territory. Today we meet him whenever we're drinking the 100-proof whiskey and honey liqueur that bears his nickname, Captain Jack.



As usual, Sierra Club focuses on the Conservation issues and brings these to light, which is one of the purposes for which the Sierra Club was created;

One of the conservation issues we will investigate in this outing is the long-term effects of the mining practices of the 1890s and the early part of the 20th century. Many pollutants were widely used that are now known to be highly hazardous.
Another interesting area of study is the overall impact of human settlement along the river corridors and the impact of thousands of miners at a time converging during the gold rush days.
During more industrialized eras, many pieces of equipment were simply abandoned along the rivers. Sunken boats were left where they went down. We will discuss the impact these might have on river quality even today.
Trapping and hunting were extensively practiced along the Teslin and Yukon. These activities provided a decent living for many folks, yet they also depleted numbers of some species. We'll discuss how trapping and hunting might have left an impact that's felt in modern times, but also consider the benefits of a hunting/trapping culture.



The McQuesten runs clear and strong. Our best opportunities for viewing wildlife are on this stretch, and we will watch for beaver, moose, grizzly and black bear, bald and golden eagles, ducks, geese, loons, and more. There is good fishing on the McQuesten for arctic grayling, northern pike, and even lake trout. There will be the occasional deteriorating prospector's cabin to remind us of human history in the late 1800s and 1900s. The river does not contain rapids, but we will need to be alert for the possibility of a downed tree or other vegetation in our path. Campsites are peaceful, and we can expect solitude here. The McQuesten area is in the traditional territory of the Na-Cho Nyak Dun First Nations people. Their name translates to "Big River People," a reference to the Yukon River.

After reaching the confluence of the McQuesten and Stewart Rivers, we travel parallel to the Klondike Highway for about 12 miles. The river here follows the path of the Tintina Trench, a geologic feature that creates a natural flyway for huge numbers of migratory birds in the spring and fall. Over 200,000 sandhill cranes use this corridor to travel to and from their tundra nesting grounds, their distinctive calls reverberating from the cliffs of the Trench. We once again head away from the noise of cars and trucks to continue down the Stewart River. This stretch of the Stewart is isolated, but we will likely will come across others sharing the river corridor along the way -- either staying in cabins, working at summer fish camps, or traveling in canoes or power boats.


Finally we reach the confluence with the mighty Yukon River. It is a thrill to paddle down the river highway that was key to so much history. We can imagine the mighty stern wheel paddle boats that were the workhorses of the north, as well as all the early trappers and prospectors who traveled in canoes, as we still do now. Our encounters with other people will increase, but we still hope to view some wildlife. This interesting stretch of the Yukon speeds us with ever more excitement each day towards our final destination of Dawson City


Dawson City is truly a town that reflects an earlier era. Wooden sidewalks, stately Victorians, false-fronted wooden shops, and sod-roofed cabins all share space with modern facilities. Dawson City has dining (both fine and casual), saloons like Diamond Tooth Gertie's that still stage dancehall reviews like those seen 100 years ago, museums, and shops galore. You don't need a car to stroll the sights of downtown, or to visit the excellent museums or cabins of Jack London and Robert Service a few blocks uptown. And you can easily imagine the Dawson City of the 1890s, when it was the hub of the last massive gold rush of the West. The Dawson City Music Festival began in 1975. It is very popular, with people arriving from all over Canada, as well as other countries, to enjoy the weekend full of folk, bluegrass, and native music -- and even blues, jazz, and rock music. The town will be at its lively best, and we can expect to be a part of the warm Yukon hospitality and merriment.



Our drive back to Whitehorse will take 5-6 hours, so we will arrive in the evening. It is best to plan on spending the night of the 18th in a Whitehorse hotel.

Below pic; Scenic View of Whitehorse



The Package Includes:

  • All canoeing equipment
  • All meals while canoeing (meals in Dawson City are on one’s own)
  • Transportation to put-in and return from Dawson City
  • Two nights lodging in Dawson City
  • Weekend pass to the music festival

Highlights of the Trip:
Canoe in classic Yukon wilderness, Experience the Northern flora, fauna, Learn about Yukon history, and enjoy the Yukon Music Festival

Price: $1,895
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 10

Trip Itinerary;

Day 1: Assemble in downtown Whitehorse, where we meet our shuttle, load gear, and drive to our put-in near the small town of Mayo. After lunch, we will load the canoes and travel a short distance downriver to our first campsite.

Days 2-4: We paddle the scenic McQuesten. We will load our canoes after breakfast for the day's adventure. After we reach camp, there are possibilities for walks on the hillsides and for trying our luck at catching a few fish. We will be happy to include fish in any dinner or breakfast!

Days 5-10: These days we will float the Stewart River and a segment of the Yukon River. There should be time for a layover day, so we'll be watching for a good campsite to relax in. All paddling days include a stop for a restful lunch, and other possible stops for a stretch break or for exploring any interesting looking old cabins or settlements. On Day 10, we'll arrive in Dawson City, where will head for our lodging and a nice shower!

Day 11: We have the entire day to attend the Dawson City Music Festival, which is an eclectic mix of folk, bluegrass, indigenous, rock, blues, and any other genre that has struck the fancy of the festival organizers for the year. One can always take a break to see the sights of Dawson City, visit museums, or go shopping.

Day 12: Our festival ticket is still good. Each of us will decide our own itinerary for the day, and in the early afternoon we will meet our shuttle for the return to Whitehorse.


Getting there and Back;
The trip begins and ends in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada. Whitehorse is a wonderful small town, full of friendly people, lots of cars with canoes strapped on top, four recording studios, cafes, museums, and riverfront activities. Plan to arrive in Whitehorse by July 6. We will have a no-host gathering that evening to meet each other, ask questions, get instructions for the next day, and hopefully have a short presentation on conservation issues from a member of a local organization. You may also wish to stay in town a day after our trip to do some sightseeing.

Air service to Whitehorse can be purchased through Air Canada or through the Yukon carrier, Air North.

Food and Lodging;


We recommend that you arrive at least one full day before the trip starts, and that you plan your departure at least one day after our return, as weather can sometimes cause major delays. In addition, you may want to do some sightseeing in Whitehorse. Participants on this outing will arrange their own pre- and post-trip lodging. We will send a list of hotel options after you sign up for the trip.


We will arrange an early evening get-together on July 6 to check in, say hello, and answer any last-minute equipment questions. Similarly, there will be a no-host optional dinner in Whitehorse on the evening of our last day. The first meal that will be provided on this trip is lunch on Day One. The final meal provided will be lunch on Day 10. Meals in Dawson City are not provided. For the long drive back to Whitehorse, our group will decide if we want to stop at a restaurant on the way back (not provided) or if we want to brown-bag it (we can provide this).

Our meals will be hearty and easy to prepare out-of-doors. Vegetarians can be accommodated, as well as folks with some dietary restrictions. We will have some fresh foods, and hope to bring an ice chest for keeping a few things cool. Other components of our meals will include foods that are more typical of backpacking trips.

Sierra Club outings are based on shared participation. One way we share is by taking turns being the cooks for the day, with one of the leaders helping out. Let's see if we can create some scrumptious meals outdoors that even have a bit of a gourmet flare!

All of our nights prior to our stay in Dawson City will be spent camping along the rivers; hence accommodations during the trip will be in personal tents. We will ask you to provide information on the type of tent you have in order to be sure your tent is rain- and wind-worthy enough for our outing. Tent sharing is encouraged for those willing to do so in order to reduce our footprint on the land and to make sure we can fit all of our gear into the canoes. Participants will bring their own sleeping bags and pads, though it may be possible to rent these in Whitehorse.

Two nights lodging in Dawson City are being provided in the trip price. We will be staying at a charming bunkhouse, where we have small but clean shared rooms. Showers and bathrooms are just down the hall. The bunkhouse is an historic building that has been fully modernized. All rooms open to the covered open-air halls, which are balconies wrapping the building. It is just a short walk to the riverfront stroll along the Klondike River.


Accessibility;

This adventure is moderate in difficulty. We will be paddling most days of the trip, beginning mid-morning and ending in the afternoon when we locate a good campsite. When flows are strong, mileage for the day can be high.


All participants on this outing must have experience with tandem canoeing on moving water (rivers). While our trip is easy-moving water for the most part (class I), there may be brief spots that require paddling through a wave train, and on the McQuesten River we may need to negotiate rapidly to skirt a strainer or to make a sharp turn. All paddlers must be able to catch eddies, do peel-outs, move the boat sideways to avoid strainers or rocks, paddle through small wave trains, execute a ferry maneuver, and be familiar with basic reentry strategies in case of a capsize. If these terms are currently unfamiliar, you could take a beginner course in river canoeing and then be ready to join us.

Your trip leaders are also canoeing instructors for the American Red Cross. If you have the time and interest, we can supply you with May, June, and early July dates in 2010 when the Sacramento-Sierra chapter of the ARC will be offering its Fundamentals of Canoeing and Basic River Canoeing courses -- Fundamentals being a requirement to enter the river course. Most people would be interested in the Yukon paddling trip far before these classes are offered, but they could be taken as refreshers.

Although the trip leaders are highly experienced canoeists and have led a previous wilderness canoeing trip in Yukon Territory, neither has paddled the McQuesten, Stewart, or this stretch of the Yukon. Our trip will therefore be an adventure for us all, and some decisions on campsites, mileages, or walks will be made on-trip as conditions are encountered. Participants will hence need to be comfortable with this mild level of uncertainty and be able to cheerfully "go with the flow."


What is equipment is needed;
We will rent efficient, well-maintained tandem canoes from our outfitter in Whitehorse. The canoe rental includes a paddle and a personal flotation device (pfd) for each of us, as well as safety equipment such as painters (end lines), spare paddles, and throw bags. If you prefer to use your own equipment, just let us know.
You will need to have waterproof bags for your sleeping bag and clothing. We will send you suggestions and sizes that will work, and we'll let you know if we can provide any extra drybags. A complete equipment list will be sent to all participants far in advance of the outing.



What to study;

Useful research References;

The first three references are mile-by-mile river guides:
•  Karpes, Gus. Exploring the Upper Yukon: Carmacks to Dawson City.
•  Rourke, Mike. Yukon River: Carmacks to Dawson City.
•  B. Allgeyer & B. Baumann. McQuesten River and Stewart River. (German Language)

Other Books;
•  Morse, Kathryn Taylor. The Nature of Gold: An Environmental History of the Klondike Gold Rush.
•  Johnson, James Albert.George Carmack: The Man of Mystery Who Set Off the Klondike Gold Rush.
•  Berton, Pierre. Klondike: The Last Great Gold Rush, 1896-1899.
•  Firth, John. River Time: Racing the Ghosts of the Klondike Gold Rush.
•  London, Jack., Klondike and Other Stories.
•  Webb, Melody.Yukon: the Last Frontier
•  Mayer, Melanie J. Klondike Women: True Tales of 1897-1898 Gold Rush. Check out the poems of Robert Service, notably The Cremation of Sam McGee and The Spell of the Yukon.
In Whitehorse, the bookstore Mac's Fireweed has a huge section devoted to Yukon books and magazines. They can be found on the web at http://www.yukonbooks.com.
Music:
Yukon songwriter and recording artist Kim Barlow has produced four CDs in a new-folk genre. Her 2004 album Luckyburden is about Keno City, and two tracks were recorded in the Keno City Snackshop.
Fun:
The last time I was in Whitehorse I purchased (on sale for $10) a bilingual (English/French) board game of Yukon history, facts, and trivia called Klondike. It is great fun! It was produced by the Association franco-yukonnaise.
Maps: 1:250,000 topographic available at http://www.yukonbooks.com/topo_maps/
•  McQuesten (NTS 115P)
•  Stewart River (NTS 115P)
•  Dawson (NTS 116B)


Things you should Know;
Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

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